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Three and a half hours out of
Manchester saw the Air 2000 A321 preparing to descend on to the island of Skiathos. The island and its very short runway were
now clearly visible below us. We hit the runway with a jolt, taxied a short distance then full on brakes. Passengers for Skiathos
were directed to passport control while those remaining moved to the departure lounge to await the final leg of the
journey to Volos in the Pelion region.
After a very short time we were
airborne again and soon landing at Volos. The airfield there is massive and we were met at the runway by a luxury transport
vehicle for the journey to the terminal building. A number of fine looking buildings were visible from the runway but not
the terminal building. After travelling some considerable distance we arrived to this magnificently appointed building which
houses passport control and all other facilities of Volos International Airport. It is difficult to find words that could
adequately describe the splendour of the arrivals lounge and baggage reclaim.
From the airport we made good
time along a section of motorway towards the city of Volos passing through large areas of flat lands growing vegetables and
other crops. Turning east now from Volos the road quickly began winding and climbing steeply. At
various points we could look back to magnificent views over Volos and beyond.
As the road wound ever higher
we passed through an area where snow still lay 3mts thick to both sides of the road and this was 9thMay.
We passed though the village
of Hania and then on past the entrance for the winter ski resort. Above us the snow on the mountain peaks glinted in the sunshine
and soon we were descending on the eastern slopes of Mt. Pelion. We were winding down now through acres of apple orchards
all in blossom, a wonderful site. Could this be Greece's secret orchard? Finally we were arriving to the resort of Agios
Ioannis and our base for two weeks the hotel Eleanna.
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| Agios Ioannis from the harbour |
Agios Ioannis lies below the
steep wooded eastern slopes of Mt. Pelion. Along the edge of the sand and shingle beach lie a number of Tavernas, several
bakeries and small shops including an excellent fruit shop. The harbour lies on the north side and beyond that is Plaka beach.
To the south side separated by the river lies the famous Papa Nera beach. This is a long crescent mainly of sand having two
Tavernas and a backcloth of mature trees.
The next day was given over
to checking out Agios Ioannis and to lying on Papa Nera beach. The following day Sunday we decided to walk to the nearby village
of Agios Dimitrios. I say nearby but the roads out of Agios Ioannis all wind
relentlessly upward. There are mule tracks used also by walkers that cut off the corners as the road zigzags upwards.
These are shorter but steeper than walking the roadway. We decided to walk the roadway and after what seemed like an eternity
finally collapsed into a chair at a café at Agios Dimitrios. It was at about this time that we decided that to continue on
upwards towards the snow line might not be such a good idea. The ice cream and lemonade was most welcome as was the shade
from the hot sun. As we sat there another group of English tourists staggered in having come by the same route. After a tour
of the village we returned to Agios Ioannis for lunch and an afternoon on the beach.
The following morning we set
off on foot for the coastal village of Damouhari. This can be reached by roadway, mule track or a combination of both. We
set off up the mule track from the rocks at the southern end of Papa Nera beach. At the point where the mule track meets the
road we decided to continue along the roadway. A short walk brought us to the sleepy little hamlet of Damouhari with its quaint
little harbour small shingle beach with another shingle and stone beach just around the bay. It had a number of Tavernas and
most important the ice cream for a relaxing day. On the south side a small river runs from a ravine into the sea and is crossed
by a footbridge to where a steep mule track continues along the coast. Looking up the ravine from the bridge a waterfall cascades
from the left. Tread carefully as you cross the bridge as some of its boards are a little delicate.
Tuesday was to be a day of rest
spent on Plaka beach and might have been so but for the intervention of a passing snake. I was lying on my side on the beach
reading when I felt something touch the back of my neck. I put my hand there first before looking up and just in time to see
the snake disappearing into the shrubbery at the edge of the beach.
I had by this time decided to hire a car as the best way to see more of Pelion. I obtained a quote
from the first company of 265 euros for three days with a class 'A' car. The second company gave a printed sheet indicating
that a class 'A' car was available for five days for 171 euros. When I returned later to book it out came the calculator and
I was told that with taxes etc. the charge was 220 euros. When I protested that I had been quoted 171 euros and got up to
leave I was quickly called back and advised that I could have 20% discount. Out came the calculator again and I was advised
that the figure was now 162 euros a price I quickly accepted. This is apparently some strange form of Greek mathematics.
The car was a Renault Twingo
, a small car not available on the British market and one I found very comfortable with very good handling on the winding
roads. My only complaint was the reflections of the bulkhead onto the windscreen for which I shall blame the French.
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