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Azogires

Azogires goat
Azogires goat

 

 

Taking the first right turn after leaving Paleochora on the Chania road takes you along a winding mountain road to the sleepy little village of Azorgires. High above the village lies a large cave with an interesting history.

 

 It is said that in the 12th century a group of ninety-nine Holy Fathers came up to Azorgires to live in the cave. After a while their leader, John, went off to live on his own in a cave on the Akrotiri peninsular. The ninety-eight remaining fathers had previously agreed that if one should die then they would all die together.

 

After some years John was accidentally shot with an arrow and died. That evening the remaining ninety-eight fathers all died of natural causes and were found by the villagers the following morning. Some bones were later removed and buried and some were used to bless the village Plane tree. This tree still survives protected by The Ministry of Agriculture and unusually for a Plane tree it remains evergreen all year. It's branches grow into crosses and legend has it that when there are ninety nine crosses the tree will die.

 

cave entrance
cave entrance

 

 

We made our way up the route towards the cave. It starts as an asphalt and concrete road, later becoming an unmade track and finally becoming little more than a goat path. We clambered over the final ridge, which has fantastic views of the valley below and to the sea in the distance. The path now led down from the ridge into a ravine where we found the entrance to the cave.  We had expected that the cave would open into the side of the mountain but instead it had iron ladders leading down into the heart of the mountain. We ventured only as far as the top section of ladders as torches would be required to venture further. I shouted down into the depth of the cave several times and each time a strange distant dull sound was returned. Then at the last attempt came the sound of flapping wings from the darkness below us.

 

We made our way back to the village below. The village had one taverna and a café. The café called the Alpha had a board outside advertising their 'World Famous Special Omelettes' at 3e and fresh orange juice for 1e. It was lunchtime by now so in we went. The orange juice was great and the omelette delicious, the best I have ever tasted.

 

The café had grape vines growing on a trellis across the roadway and as we sat there they began to prepare for the harvest. They laid out a large plastic sheet on the road and using a cutter on a long pole began cutting down bunches of grapes. The waiter cut and washed a bunch of grapes and brought them to our table to finish off the meal. I enquired at to what they would be doing with the grapes and was advised they were to be used to produce their own special Rakki. This I understand would be far more potent than the commercial variety.